Penultimate Day
Thursday May 19
We both enjoy Berneray. The drive there is both scenic and productive. The road puddles were testimony to the heavy overnight showers, the sedge bent over to hug the ground, proof of the wind's ferocity. We have been unlucky with the weather this year.
Committee Road is the shortest route across the north west corner towards Sollas and Berneray. A Short-eared Owl hunting in the shelter of the roadside fence - we couldn't stop - was an early bonus. Almost as soon as we'd turned off the Lochmaddy road towards the Berneray causeway, we noticed a dark bird being mobbed by gulls. It flew low away from us, jinking to avoid the unwanted escort. A male Golden Eagle.
It was pointless taking the Borve road, it's windswept at the best of times, we drove straight to East Beach overlooking Harris. Via the Seal watchpoint.
Ungainly slugs out of the water, streamlined elegance when in their natural element.
We lunched, I did the word games in the paper, Pam announced Gannets, Great Northern Diver and a few waders on the beach. Meadow Pipits and Swallows hurtled through at land speed record rate, and we left.
The Lewis ferry was in.
We've been in Scotland for almost four weeks. We did not see a single Red Deer in the Highlands, and have only seen a few at distance on the Uists. We came across three scruffy looking young males, losing their shaggy winter coats, early growth antlers still wrapped in velvet, which did not immediately run away as soon as the car stopped.
I'd noticed the signpost to Port Nan Long before, assuming that it was the old ferry port. Today, we drove down an unexpectedly short section of road ending in a a few houses, one roofless with a new porch being built and new windows. I looked it up when I got home.
''This burial site in Western Isles was a focus for funerary practices in the Bronze Age period, between 2200 BC and 1501 BC. A programme of archaeological work was undertaken, 4–28 July 2016, prior to and during the installation of a new overhead electricity line. A total of 44 archaeological sites were identified during the walkover survey. Many of the remains relate to the Iron Age and Norse settlements''.
So there.
During the afternoon, I'd had a message from a concerned Sue, informing me that today's ferry has been cancelled, tomorrow's (on which they are due to travel) is in the balance. No more news as yet, ours on Saturday could be affected too.
After a drink at home, we met Sue and Ian at the Westford for a last meal - as we'd thought. News came through that tomorrow's is definitely cancelled as the ship has gone to dry dock in Glasgow. Later, a message arrived to say that there are two extra sailings on Saturday, they should get off then. All because an inexperienced captain hit the pier at Uig in high winds.
After dinner we drove Committee Road - again. Two Arctic Skuas at the start, a male Hen Harrier as we were leaving, four Ravens over the forestry, and a Short-eared Owl near home was the reward. As well as a lovely, warm, soft sunlit evening, bathing the moorland and hills in an artist's eye varnish.
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